Skip to content
Home FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

Natural Paving Path Grade and Vehicle Grade pavers stop weeds from growing through but still allows even the heaviest rain to soak away.  This is achieved by the nonwoven strong geotextile that is welded to the base of the pavers.  If a seed drops into a paver it will not take hold, as there is no water retained in the pebbles and roots cannot grow through the geotextile.

With Natural Paving Grass Grade, weeds are still able to grow as they would on a normal lawn.

Yes. If an irregular shaped pebble or stone chip is used, the Path and Vehicle Grade pavers can be laid on a slightly steeper slope compared to when filling with a regular shaped pebble. Each type of Natural Paving has a maximum recommended slope gradient that pavers can be installed on.

The steepest slope for Path Grade with a round pebble is 1 in 5, or 11o, and similarly for Vehicle Grade it is 1 in 6 or 9.5o. Grass Grade can be used for slops of 8o.

The maximum recommended slopes, along with other parameters, can be found on the respective Grade’s web page.

Natural Paving pavers can be laid on top of cracked concrete surfaces, depending on each unique situation. Some common examples:

  1. New concrete slabs shrink, and the installer may not have created appropriate crack starters to control the position and appearance of cracks.
  2. The foundation was not strong enough to carry a heavy load.
  3. The foundation design may not allow for the wet strength of the foundation (e.g., very low wet strength for clay) and the base is simply not adequate, or a geotextile was not used between the soil and the subbase.

In situations like 1 and 2, specific design to cope with water drainage may allow Natural Paving to be laid over cracked concrete. For 3, concrete must be removed, and the problems treated appropriately to provide a suitable starting base for Natural Paving.  If you are unsure, you can ask one of our paving experts to advise on the best solution for your specific situation.

Natural Paving, pebbles are as practical as a hard paved surface for handling narrow wheels, high heels, walking sticks and vehicles.  Natural Paving challenges all the traditional disadvantages of using pebbles and transforms them into a stable, safe, and flat surface.

In comparison, concrete can crack when stressed or overloaded. Concrete is impermeable so puddles form on the surface causing potential hazards.

River pebbles, decorative stones, or gravel chips measuring between 8mm to 15mm are used with Natural Paving. All pebbles/decorative stones should be washed, free of dust and be of a strong composition. For sloped surfaces, we recommend using an irregular pebble or stone chip.

If the pebbles are larger than the preferred size, the pebbles will not pack appropriately into the paver and could potentially result in an unstable surface. If the pebbles are too small, they are prone to move within the honeycomb cells.

It is essential to use the right size pebbles to get the best performance from Natural Paving.

Yes – any competent DIY’er can install Natural Paving, providing the installation guidelines are followed.

Laying Natural Paving directly on grass is not recommended. Please refer to the installation guidelines for instructions on how to install our Grass Grade to achieve the best results.

Please refer to our calculator for an estimated cost of materials required.

Natural Paving is exceptionally stable. It maintains a continuous surface with no cracks or puddling and, copes well with movements in the ground and tree roots.. When laid on inclines it remains stable on up to 15° slopes, if a crushed or irregular stone is used. Round pebbles are suitable for up to 5° slopes.

Little maintenance is required. Leaves and other debris can be lightly raked or swept off. In shady areas, the pebbles may need a moss and mildew spray and any settling of the stones or foundation can be smoothed by raking or sweeping.

As Natural Paving is permeable, rain and surface water can pass directly through, soaking into the ground below.

It is not recommended to use crushed shell fill with Natural Paving. The shell has a weak structure and with ongoing traffic use can easily turn into powder.  This results in the material compacting, as powder takes up less space that shell, leaving the top of the honeycomb structure exposed.

In contrast, when you use 8mm to 14mm pebbles, the stones that overlay the grid are stabilised because they sit in what are effectively ‘nests’ formed by the gaps between the pebbles below. Those pebbles are held in place by the Natural Paving grid. This grid is covered in pebbles and is hidden. The resulting surface is a stable pathway, as the pebbles are nested like eggs in a crate. The surface looks completely natural but is so stable that even stiletto heels or the skinny tyres of a racing bicycle can traverse it without displacing the pebbles. With shells, you lose all the stabilising influence of the ‘nests’ if the shells have disintegrated and are compacted into the grid. If you sprinkle fresh shells on top, it would be like sprinkling shells on a hard flat surface.

If it is the colour of shells that you want, then you could consider using white quartz pebbles which are smooth and nice to walk on, although expensive. You could also consider using lime chips that are the colour of shells. This is economical but are not so comfortable to walk on in bare feet. If you really want the shell finish you could use Natural Paving to hold the shells in place but accept that in the longer-term maintenance will be required if the shells become crushed and compacted. This would entail lifting each mat, tipping out the powdered shells and filling the mats with fresh shells.

Yes, pavers can easily be cut with a handsaw or circular saw.